Southampton says Goodbye

Tuesday 11 November 2008 will go down in history as the day the World’s most famous and much loved ship left Southampton, her home for the past 40 years, for the final time to spend the rest of her days in retirement in Dubai.

Queen Elizabeth 2, or QE2 as she is more commonly known, was built by John Brown Shipbuilders on the Clyde and launched by Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II on 20 September 1967. Throughout her long and illustrious life, she carried over 2½ million passengers and sailed almost 6 million nautical miles, the furthest distance ever travelled by any ship. She completed 25 World cruises, made 806 transatlantic crossings and even went to war in service of her Country. She is one of a kind, a shining example of the halcyon days when Britain was still Great and led the way in shipbuilding, a time when Britannia still ruled the waves.

What is it about this ship that draws you in and keeps you under her spell? For me, the story began in 1973 when as a young boy, I was captivated by the sight of this mighty liner passing down the Solent at the start of yet another transatlantic crossing. This interest has remained with me to this day and throughout the intervening years, I have made the near 200 mile round journey to Southampton from my home in Somerset just to watch this great ship. Many a time I have stood watching from the shore as this grandest of Ladies made her stately procession up Southampton Water, heading off on yet another voyage of discovery and taking with her the dreams and aspirations of those aboard.

I hoped that one day, maybe, just maybe I might be one of those fortunate to be on the inside looking out but who was I kidding? She was well out of my league and I knew it but as Martin Luther King famously said, "I have a dream" and mine was to sail on this great ship. In August 2007 and 34 years after we first met, I finally realised that dream.

There was never any doubt that I would not be there to say goodbye to a ship that has been part of my life for so long and although it's hard to put into words quite how it felt, if you were there and share the same deep affinity with this, the greatest and grandest ship of our time as I, then you will know exactly what I'm talking about. If you were unable to make it to Southampton that day then I hope the following will give you an idea of what it was like as seen through my eyes.

Time to say Goodbye
It was 3.30am when the alarm went off, disturbing the otherwise still night but I was already awake. As I left my warm bed behind and headed out into the cold pre-dawn November morning, it was with a heavy heart. I was off to greet a dear old friend once more but as much as I was looking forward to renewing our long standing acquaintance, it was with sadness in the knowledge this would be the final time we would meet.

Driving through the otherwise deserted Southampton streets, I arrived to find the Blue Funnel vessel Ashleigh R waiting quietly in the still early morning. I made my way along the marina and stepped aboard, joining a small group of fellow enthusiasts who like me, were there to witness history in the making. With the steamship Shieldhall remaining in port due to strong winds, ours was the only boat to make it out that morning but as we set off from Ocean Village shortly after 5am, little did we know what lay ahead.

The plan had been to meet up with Queen Elizabeth 2 somewhere around Fawley but as we made our way up Southampton Water towards her, it soon became apparent all was not well. QE2 had grounded on a sandbank; it seemed she didn’t want to leave Southampton after all!

Sailing on further into the darkness, we reached the end of Southampton Water and stood off Calshot as requested by Port Control. From this ideal position, we could see QE2 facing us starboard side to and clearly not where she was supposed to be, being assisted by the Southampton based tugs Sussex, Lyndhurst, Bentley and Lady Madeleine and the more powerful Tenax from the nearby Fawley refinery. During the drama, while the tugs were attempting to free her, news came through that one of the navigation buoys had apparently been damaged when it was struck by one of the tow lines, losing its top in the process!

Helped by the rising tide, QE2 was finally freed from her temporary shackles and made her way slowly up Southampton Water, accompanied by Sussex at the fore, Lyndhurst and Bentley aft with Ashleigh R escorting her off the starboard beam. The sun was coming up as passengers started to assemble on the open decks in anticipation of the arrival. Passing Hythe pier, QE2 gave a single long, deep resonating blast on her whistle prior to being turned on the lower swinging ground, delighting the crowds that had assembled on Shieldhall’s deck and going some way to make up for their understandable disappointment at not being able to sail earlier that morning.

Although originally planned to arrive in darkness, the delay caused by the impromptu grounding meant that it was daylight by the time she was finally secured alongside the QEII Terminal, around an hour later than scheduled. As the first lines went across, the 39 feet long paying off pennant was raised aloft; the World's most famous and much loved vessel was back in her home port of Southampton for the 726th and final time.

The turn from the Western Solent into Southampton Water is one QE2 has made many times previously without incident, so what went wrong? The grounding occurred just before 5.30am in the area of the Thorn Channel just outside the entrance to Southampton Water. It is thought south-westerly force 7 winds may have caught the ship as she made her turn, blowing her off course and onto the sand. No-one on board was injured and when interviewed later, disembarking passengers reported feeling a shudder as the ship hit the sandbank.

The UK Maritime & Coastguard Agency (MCA) later reported that following QE2’s arrival into Southampton, Surveyors boarded the ship and after carrying out an inspection and an underwater examination by a diver, concluded that she was not damaged in the grounding and that it was safe to continue on her final voyage.

After returning to the hotel for a quick shower and breakfast, I made my way to Town Quay where I caught the ferry for the short journey across the river to Hythe. Passing close by QE2, one of her tenders was out and members of the crew could be seen hosing down the hull, presumably where the tugs had made contact earlier that morning.

We had gathered to see QE2 and celebrate her final day in Southampton but the day had greater significance, for it was the 90th anniversary of the signing of the Armistice, marking the end of World War 1 in 1918. At 11am, a de Havilland Beaver and Auster aircraft from the Army Air Corps Historic Aircraft Flight flew in across the river and dropped a million poppies over the ship. As the poppies drifted across the city, I and those around me on the pier stood in silent remembrance of those who made, and continue to make the ultimate sacrifice in the name of freedom.

Meanwhile on QE2, HRH the Duke of Edinburgh was making his final visit and while aboard observed the two minutes silence prior to meeting crew members who served on the ship during the Falklands campaign. He was also due to tour the ship including the wardroom, bridge, engine control room and hospital before attending a reception in the Queen's Room, where he presented the Robert Lloyd painting ‘Coming Home’, which HM the Queen unveiled during her final visit to the ship in June, to the Mayor who accepted this on behalf of the people of Southampton.

Later that afternoon, a Harrier jump jet from No 1 (F) Squadron Royal Air Force, which has links with QE2 through the Falklands campaign, approached from the east. Flying up Southampton Water towards QE2, the aircraft hovered around 50 metres above the ship before turning, bowing and departing. This was immediately followed by a sail past by the Marchwood based Royal Fleet Auxiliary (RFA) landing ship Mounts Bay followed by 3 Royal Navy P2000 patrol craft, HM Ships Blazer, Ranger and Tracker, concluding in an exchange of whistles between the QE2 and the Royal Fleet Auxiliary vessel as the latter slowly passed by, heading up Southampton Water and out to sea.

I returned to Town Quay just as the sun was setting and as the ferry passed down QE2’s starboard side once more, I put my camera down and stood in awe of the view laid out in front of me, just as I had done 35 years before when we first met. It was then it hit me; the realisation that this was to be the final time I would ever see her in daylight. Walking off the ferry, I wiped away a tear or 2. It was the wind in my face I assured myself, yet deep down I knew that wasn’t true.

As I made my way back to the hotel, crowds were beginning to gather in nearby Mayflower Park. As darkness fell, the coloured lights of the fairground lit up the early evening sky, while stallholders competed against each other trying to entice the steady stream of visitors into parting with their hard earned cash. In another corner, a giant screen had been set up by the BBC, showing archive footage of QE2’s long career, interspersed with live reports from the berth while later on, a Beatles tribute band would be playing.

Once back in my hotel room, I took advantage of the momentary respite as I kicked off my boots, lay on the bed and caught up with news coverage of the day’s events thus far. Draining my coffee cup, the time was nearing 6pm and barely an hour after returning, it was time to head off once again.

The main event drew ever closer and as I headed back across towards Town Quay, the Silver Beatles were in full flow. Once aboard the specially chartered Red Funnel Isle of Wight ferry Red Eagle, I headed straight for the open decks. Not surprisingly, the area was already crowded as my fellow passengers had beaten me to it, lining the rails and hoping they had found the prime spot for what was to follow. Undeterred, I made my way below to the almost deserted car deck; finding what I hoped, was an equally good position!

We were soon underway and as we left the berth and made our way slowly out into the river, it seemed that anything and everything that could float was out on the water that evening. Standing off Town Quay with the QEII Terminal directly ahead of us, QE2 was sat there, all lit up and looking magnificent and completely surrounded by countless small craft, their lights twinkling in the otherwise darkness. Looking down, I could see the crowds assembled on Town Quay below me. There must have been thousands down there braving the cold night air and it is likely most would not have seen very much at all but that didn’t really matter. What was important was that like me, they had gathered to pay their respects and say their goodbyes.

Meanwhile, back at the QEII Terminal, the tugs were now in position, the area was cleared and shortly after 7.15pm, QE2 gave 3 long blasts on her mighty whistles and slipped her moorings, thus cutting her final ties with the city that has been her home for almost 40 years. With the tugs pulling her stern first, she made her way silently past us towards the middle swinging ground opposite Mayflower Park. Crew could clearly be seen congregated on the fo’c’sle, while up on the Signal Deck, others could be seen waving Union flags in celebration, caught in the glare of the spotlights illuminating the mighty funnel, like moths to a flame. Below them, every inch of deck space was filled with passengers, savouring the moment and who could blame them.

Around 7.30pm, a message from QE2’s Master, Captain Ian McNaught, which had been recorded earlier in the day, was broadcast to the assembled crowds in Mayflower Park. He said:

"For 40 years, QE2 has been acclaimed all over the globe as a symbol of British excellence and throughout her life, imprinted firmly on that symbol of excellence is one word, and the word is, Southampton. QE2 belongs to Southampton. This is her home, just as it will be home to Queen Mary 2 and Queen Victoria. She has put into her home port more times than she has visited any other port in the World and after every voyage, this is always the port that she comes home to, Southampton. But the day has come today which had to come and this time, her 726th time, is the last time, for when QE2 sails tonight, she will not come back home again.

"For 40 years, QE2 has striven to serve Southampton and the country to her best but now her sea days are done, and she passes on to a new life in a new home. On behalf of QE2, I bid Southampton farewell and thank you for all the affection you have shown to her over all those years. Southampton, I salute you.”

Around 7.40pm, while QE2 was still being pulled back into position, the stillness was shattered by a single prolonged blast on her whistle, which resonated through the cold night air raising a huge cheer from the assembled crowds and signalled the start of the firework display. For the next 5 minutes or so, the ensuing pyrotechnic extravaganza produced a steady stream of rockets shooting forth into the night sky like tracer fire from behind QE2 and exploding high above her in a kaleidoscope of colour. As the final starburst died away, QE2, momentarily shrouded in smoke as the remnants from the fireworks drifted across her decks and off into the night, let out another extended blast from her whistle, which was readily answered by the many boats surrounding her, blowing their whistles and horns in deference of their Queen.

The time had finally come to take her leave. Red Eagle, together with sister vessel Red Falcon, led the way as QE2, which by now was completely surrounded by a growing flotilla of escorting small craft, made her way slowly up river. As she approached the QEII Terminal, the assembled group of Cunard employees, port staff and guests lining the berth were acknowledged with a further, extended blast on that mighty whistle, while another, much smaller fireworks display took place as she passed by one last time.

The journey up Southampton Water seemed to take an eternity as she continued at a snail’s pace with her waterborne consorts never far from her side. More, small firework displays could be seen and prodigious use of the whistle continued apace, eliciting a response each and every time without exception. During the transit up river, she briefly stopped to disembark members of the media teams who had been aboard for the sailing. Approaching Fawley refinery, 3 tugs were waiting to salute her, their water canon spectacularly illuminated by their navigation lights.

At Calshot, flares could be seen bursting into the sky, accompanied by more fireworks from the beach. By now, the flotilla had thinned out considerably and as Shieldhall said her goodbyes and turned for home, her distinctive steam whistle could clearly be heard. Soon it was down to just 3, as the 2 Red Funnel consorts remained close by. As Red Eagle slowed, we were treated to a final close up view as QE2 passed down our starboard side, our whistle call going unacknowledged on this occasion.

Rounding Calshot and passing the spot where she had grounded earlier that morning, QE2 completed her turn before increasing speed as she headed out into the Solent, setting a course for Nab Tower where she would later disembark her pilot. Shortly afterwards, Red Falcon peeled off to return to East Cowes (Isle of Wight), leaving just Red Eagle alone with QE2. We followed in her wake for a while as further fireworks could be seen along the Island’s western coastline before reluctantly turning for home.

Meanwhile, back on Red Eagle, I stood out on the open deck, transfixed as QE2 headed off in the distance, her lights blazing against the jet black sky. It was a cold evening but I didn’t feel it; after all, I’d lost count of the number of times over the years that I had stood around in all weathers, come rain or shine, day or night and near zero temperatures just to watch this true legend of the seas come and go. For almost 40 years she has served with distinction but had just left her home port of Southampton for the 726th and final time, never to return. As I stood alone with just my thoughts for company, the realisation hit me once more, just as it had done earlier that morning, only this time stronger, for this really was the final occasion that I would ever see my beloved QE2.

The journey back to Southampton was a sombre one. I had just witnessed the passing of the most famous vessel of my lifetime and although I always knew this day would have to come, it didn’t make it any easier. Once off the ferry, I walked the short distance back to the hotel and after catching up with the late news reports, climbed back into the bed I had left some 20 hours earlier. It had certainly been a long day and although pleased to see her one last time to say my goodbyes, it was with sadness in the knowledge that we would not meet again, or at least not back here in Southampton, her home for almost 40 years.

Just 24 hours earlier, the weather had been atrocious, with parts of Southampton under water from flash flooding. By contrast, today however could not have been better with sunny spells and clear skies. It was as if the Gods had intervened. Without doubt it had been an emotional day but she had been given the send off she so richly deserved, with an estimated 50,000 people turning out to say goodbye to a ship which has clearly meant so much to so many. As the Silver Beatles sang just a few hours earlier, “It’s been a hard day’s night”; it most certainly had!

Leaving Southampton behind, QE2 disembarked her pilot and set a course for Lisbon. Passing south of the Isle of Wight, her speed was recorded at 30.1 knots as she headed down the English Channel for the final time. This ocean greyhound was stretching her sea legs one last time it would appear!

Lisbon was reached on 13 November, followed by Gibraltar (14th), followed by a day at sea before arriving at Civitavecchia (16th), Naples (17th) and Valletta (18th), a further 2 days spent at sea before making the final call to Alexandria on the 20th. After transiting the Suez Canal on the 21st, QE2 spent a further 4 days at sea cruising the Red & Arabian Seas and Persian Gulf.

Dubai was reached late afternoon on the 26 November, exactly 40 years to the day she first went to sea on her preliminary sea trials. As QE2 made her final approach to her new home, she was first given a low level flypast by an Emirates Airbus A380 aircraft before being escorted into Mina Rashid by a flotilla led by the Royal Yacht ‘Dubai’, owned by Crown Prince Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid al-Maktoum, and escorted by the Royal Navy Type 23 frigate HMS Lancaster.

The following afternoon, once all guests had finally disembarked, a ceremony was held on the port bridge wing to mark the transfer of ownership to Nakheel’s parent company Dubai World. Cunard President and Managing Director, Carol Marlow, was momentarily overcome with emotion as she said:

"The time has come for Cunard to bid farewell to its longest serving vessel. We’re delighted that Dubai will become the future home of QE2, this is a wonderful place with its own rich maritime history.”

In his response, Sultan bin Sulayem, Chairman of Dubai World said:

"We are very proud to acquire this ship. It’s a piece of history. The life of the ship will continue, it will serve people who can come to Dubai and stay on this vessel. QE2 has come to a home that will cherish and protect her. Her future has been assured.”

With the formalities over, the red ensign and Cunard house flags were lowered to be replaced by the United Arab Emirates and Nakheel flags, Captain Ian McNaught sounded QE2’s mighty whistle on behalf of Cunard one last time. After a career spanning 41 years, 2 months and 8 days since her launch, QE2 had reached the end of her days under the Golden Lion; her sailing days were over.

Dubai but not forgotten
It’s hard to believe the greatest ship of my generation, a ship that has been part of my life for many more years than I care remember has gone forever, never to return.

There was never any doubt that I would be there to watch her depart these shores for the final time but when asked if I wished I had been there for that final journey, the answer is always the same; an unequivocal no. When I was last aboard in September 2008, it was hard to accept that just 2 months later she would be no more. It was difficult leaving her then but at least I did so in the knowledge that she would continue a while longer. To make that final journey and have to walk away from her in Dubai would have been unbearably sad.

She was a proper ship, unlike the vast floating apartments of steel and glass so prevalent in this modern age. A maximum recorded speed of 34 knots and a top cruising speed of 32 ½ knots made her the fastest passenger ship of her time and she was able to travel as fast astern as many of today’s cruise ships can go forward. Designed as a transatlantic liner, she was built to withstand the worst the oceans could throw at her and her clean lines and iconic looks were testimony to her designers and a fitting tribute to the proud workforce who put her together. Southampton may have been her home for almost 40 years but her roots were firmly planted on Clydebank, the place of her birth, just as it was for her predecessors Elizabeth and Mary.

When news first broke that she had been sold, I was disappointed to learn she would be spending her final days not here in the UK but in the oil rich emirate of Dubai. In fairness, it is unlikely the UK could have afforded the purchase price of $100M, let alone the ongoing cost to maintain her but it is a shame she could not have been saved for the nation, just as another famous John Brown built vessel, the former Royal Yacht Britannia had been. Unfortunate as it was, she would at least be preserved for future generations to enjoy rather than suffer the same ignominious end as most, of being run up a beach and cut up.

Plans include transforming her into an ultra luxury floating hotel with public promenades, retail outlets, cafes and restaurants and a heritage museum and will be berthed permanently at Palm Jumeirah. According to Manfred Ursprunger, the CEO of new owner QE2 Enterprises /Nakheel Hotels, the ship will eventually be moved to the nearby World repair yard to undergo an extensive refurbishment.

All public areas will be rebuilt as will all cabins and suites. The bridge, Captain’s cabin and Princess Grill will be retained but the engine room will be stripped out and a 500-seat theatre created staging West End shows and film premieres. In addition, the name Southampton will be removed from her stern and there is also talk of removing the lifeboats and extending the aft decks to form additional apartments. The most controversial aspect however, concerns the iconic funnel, which is to be removed and restored to become the central display of a new maritime museum, while an exact replica will be built containing a luxury apartment inside, making the funnel the most famous address in the Middle East.

I am undecided whether I shall make the journey to see her in her new home. On the one hand, it would be interesting to see what they have done with her and to visit areas of the ship not previously accessible, yet she will not be the same ship that I know and love. As a purist, I would rather she had been left largely untouched. I accept she was looking a little tired in places and some of her staterooms would certainly benefit from being enlarged and updated but strip away too much and you lose the very thing you are trying to save, the very reason why people would want to come and see her.

Maybe I’m being too harsh; after all, she has undergone many changes throughout her 41 years and the QE2 of 2008 is very different to the one which emerged fresh from the builders in 1968. When she finally re-emerges from this latest refit and her transformation is complete, she will undoubtedly be the epitome of luxury yet she will have to earn her keep and it remains to be seen how well she will stand up against the other spectacular attractions in this desert fantasy land. Time will tell but my plea to the new owners would be to realise what you have rather than turn her into something she never was.

Despite her age, her hull and powerplant were reportedly still in good shape but while she could have gone on longer, she would have required substantial investment in order to comply with the new SOLAS regulations due in 2010. While the return on investment may well have been achieved, this would have been a huge risk for Carnival to take and I can understand why they decided not to. Had the offer from Dubai not come in when it did, the chances are she would have remained in service for maybe one more year but sooner or later all good things must come to an end and for Queen Elizabeth 2, that time has sadly arrived. She has served her owners well and I am grateful to Cunard and Carnival for keeping her in service as long as they did, thus allowing me the opportunity to indulge my dreams and realise my lifelong ambition of sailing on her.

This ship has given me and countless others much pleasure over the years and those of us who fell under her spell shall miss her greatly. Her heart may have stopped beating and her soul may have departed along with the final passengers and crew but her memory will continue to live on. I may not be old enough to remember the great Cunarders of yesteryear but I am privileged to have grown up in the same era as QE2.

She has been part of my life for over 35 years and will always have a special place in my heart. Although there may be pretenders to the crown, there will never be another Queen Elizabeth 2. She remains indeed, the greatest and most loved ship in the World, not just in my lifetime but probably of all time and although she will sadly grace the oceans no more, she will never be forgotten.

God bless you Queen Elizabeth 2 and thanks for the memories!



© Andy Fitzsimmons 2008. All rights reserved

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